Garden fencing in East London and Essex
Closeboard and slatted timber fencing. Posts concreted in, runs set to a line, old fence dug out and taken away.
From £160 per linear metre supplied and installed, including post setting and waste removal
Seven questions, price on screen. No site visit needed for most gardens.
Types of garden fence we install
Both rates are per linear metre supplied and installed, including posts, post mix, fixings, removal of the old fence and waste disposal. What moves the price within each range is the ground we are digging into and what has to come out first. Timber only — we do not fit metal or composite fencing.
Closeboard
£160 – £185 / linear mVertical featheredge boards nailed to horizontal rails and built on site rather than dropped in as a panel. The strongest and most private option and the usual choice for a rear boundary. Nothing to blow out in a gale, and a damaged board can be replaced on its own.
Slatted
£200 – £245 / linear mHorizontal planed slats set with an even gap between them. A cleaner, more contemporary finish that suits a modern garden or a rear extension. The timber is planed and machined rather than sawn, which is where the extra cost sits.
Included in every fencing job
One quoted price covering labour, timber, posts, fixings and waste removal. No separate skip hire or timber delivery to arrange yourself.
- Old fence removedPanels, rails, posts and any concrete footings dug out and taken away.
- Post holes dug to depthAt least 600mm for a 1.8m fence, deeper on an exposed run or in soft ground.
- Posts concreted inSet in postmix, checked plumb and left to go off before anything is hung on them.
- Pressure treated timberTanalised throughout, so it resists rot in ground contact rather than for one season.
- Set to a string lineRuns straight and level, or stepped evenly where the ground slopes.
- Site clearedOffcuts, old timber and spoil loaded and gone under our waste carrier registration.
A fence fails at the posts, not the panels
Almost every fence we replace has sound panels and rotten or loose posts. The panels are what you look at; the posts are what holds the fence up in a February gale.
Post holes are dug to at least 600mm for a 1.8m fence and set in postmix rather than driven or spiked. Where an old fence has concrete footings, those come out too — leaving them in and working around them is why replacement fences often end up out of line.
- Timber or concrete postsTimber looks better and matches the fence. Concrete posts last longer and never rot at ground level, at a small extra cost.
- Gravel boards at the baseKeeps the bottom of the boards out of wet soil, which is where a fence normally rots first.
- Capping rail on topSheds water off the end grain and stops the top of the boards splitting.
Posts set plumb and concreted before anything goes on them
Five stages of a fencing job
Most fencing complaints come down to posts pulling loose, runs going out of line, or the bottom of the boards sitting in soil. All three are decided in the first two stages.
Strip out
Old panels, rails and posts removed, concrete footings dug out and loaded.
Setting out
Line and post centres marked, levels checked, steps planned where the ground falls.
Posts in
Holes dug to depth, posts set plumb in postmix and left to go off.
Boards and rails
Gravel boards, rails and boards fixed to the line, capping rail on top.
Clear down
Offcuts and spoil taken away, ground raked over and swept.
What will your fence cost?
Seven questions on the fence, the ground and the length. Takes about a minute and no contact details are needed first.
What kind of fence?
Not sure? Closeboard is the usual choice for a rear boundary. Slatted costs more but gives a cleaner, more contemporary finish.
How high?
Rear garden boundaries are usually 1.8m. Anything over 2m needs planning permission.
What is there now?
Digging out old concrete footings is the most time-consuming part of a fence replacement.
Timber or concrete posts?
Concrete costs a little more but never rots at ground level, which is where timber posts usually go.
What are we digging into?
Post holes in soil take minutes. Through paving or into hard rubble they take a lot longer.
Anything else needed?
Tick anything that applies, or leave them all unticked for a plain run.
How long is the fence run?
Enter the total length in linear metres. Add up all the sides you want fencing.
Not sure of the length?
Pace it out — a normal stride is roughly a metre. Or add up the sides: a standard 6m by 10m garden fenced on three sides is about 26 linear metres.
Here is what your fence would cost
An estimate based on what you have told us, not a fixed quote. Send it over and we will confirm in writing, usually the same day.
What you told us
Recent fencing projects
Get a price for your fence
Use the estimator for a figure on screen, or send photos and a rough length and we will quote in writing, usually the same day.
Garden fencing across East London and Essex
GardenWow installs and replaces timber garden fencing across East London and west Essex, covering South Woodford, Woodford Green, Wanstead, Snaresbrook, Leytonstone, Walthamstow, Chingford, Loughton, Buckhurst Hill, Chigwell, Ilford and Romford.
The service covers the whole job: stripping out the old fence and its concrete footings, setting out the line, digging post holes to depth, concreting posts, fitting gravel boards, rails, boards and capping, then clearing the site. Old timber and spoil leave under our waste carrier registration.
We fit timber fencing only — closeboard featheredge and slatted. We do not install metal or composite fencing.
Fence height and planning permission
A garden fence up to 2m high generally falls under permitted development and needs no planning permission. Next to a road or footpath the limit drops to 1m. Listed buildings and conservation areas have their own restrictions, so check with the council before going above those heights.
Whose fence is it?
There is no rule that the fence on the left belongs to you — that is a myth. Ownership is shown on the title plan, usually with a T mark on the owner's side of the boundary. Neither neighbour is obliged to maintain or replace a boundary fence, and you cannot go onto a neighbour's land to work on it without their agreement. Worth checking your deeds before commissioning a replacement.
Garden fencing questions
How much does garden fencing cost?
Closeboard runs £160 to £185 per linear metre supplied and installed. Slatted runs £200 to £245, because the timber is planed and machined rather than sawn and the slats take longer to hang level. Both cover posts, timber, fixings, removal of the old fence and waste disposal. Where you land in each range depends on the ground, the height and what has to come out first. Use the estimator above for a figure on your own boundary.
How long does a fence take?
A typical 15 to 25 metre boundary is one to two days. Digging out old concrete footings, coring through paving or stepping a sloped run all add time, and we give you a day count with the quote.
Do you take the old fence away?
Yes. Stripping out the old panels, rails, posts and footings is included, and it all leaves under our waste carrier registration.
How deep do the posts go?
At least 600mm for a 1.8m fence, and deeper on an exposed run or in soft ground. The rule of thumb is a quarter of the fence height below ground. Posts are set in postmix, not driven or spiked.
What makes the price move within the range?
Three things. What is there now — digging out old concrete footings is the slowest part of a replacement. What we are digging into — post holes in soil take minutes, through paving or old rubble they take far longer. And the height, since a 1.8m fence needs more timber and deeper posts than a 1.2m one.
Timber or concrete posts?
Timber looks better and matches the fence. Concrete lasts longer because it cannot rot at ground level, which is where timber posts almost always fail. If the fence is going in for the long term, concrete posts with gravel boards is the combination that lasts.
Do I need gravel boards?
Not strictly, but they are worth it. They keep the bottom of the boards out of wet soil, which is where a fence normally rots first, and they let you replace a board later without disturbing the rest.
Do I need planning permission?
Generally not up to 2m in a rear garden, or 1m where the fence adjoins a road or footpath. Conservation areas and listed buildings have their own rules.
Which side of the fence is mine?
Check your title plan rather than relying on the left-hand-side myth. A T mark on the plan points into the land of whoever owns that boundary.
Can you fence and turf together?
Yes, and it is usually cheaper in one visit than as two jobs. Fencing, turfing and paving can all be quoted together.
Do you guarantee the work?
Yes. Workmanship is guaranteed and we carry £5m public liability cover. If a post works loose or a run moves because of how it was built, we come back.
Get a price for your fence
Estimate on screen in about a minute, or send photos and a rough length for a written quote.
Garden fencing in East London and Essex
Closeboard and slatted timber fencing. Posts concreted in, runs set to a line, old fence dug out and taken away.
From £160 per linear metre supplied and installed, including post setting and waste removal
Seven questions, price on screen. No site visit needed for most gardens.
Types of garden fence we install
Both rates are per linear metre supplied and installed, including posts, post mix, fixings, removal of the old fence and waste disposal. What moves the price within each range is the ground we are digging into and what has to come out first. Timber only — we do not fit metal or composite fencing.
Closeboard
£160 – £185 / linear mVertical featheredge boards nailed to horizontal rails and built on site rather than dropped in as a panel. The strongest and most private option and the usual choice for a rear boundary. Nothing to blow out in a gale, and a damaged board can be replaced on its own.
Slatted
£200 – £245 / linear mHorizontal planed slats set with an even gap between them. A cleaner, more contemporary finish that suits a modern garden or a rear extension. The timber is planed and machined rather than sawn, which is where the extra cost sits.
Included in every fencing job
One quoted price covering labour, timber, posts, fixings and waste removal. No separate skip hire or timber delivery to arrange yourself.
- Old fence removedPanels, rails, posts and any concrete footings dug out and taken away.
- Post holes dug to depthAt least 600mm for a 1.8m fence, deeper on an exposed run or in soft ground.
- Posts concreted inSet in postmix, checked plumb and left to go off before anything is hung on them.
- Pressure treated timberTanalised throughout, so it resists rot in ground contact rather than for one season.
- Set to a string lineRuns straight and level, or stepped evenly where the ground slopes.
- Site clearedOffcuts, old timber and spoil loaded and gone under our waste carrier registration.
A fence fails at the posts, not the panels
Almost every fence we replace has sound panels and rotten or loose posts. The panels are what you look at; the posts are what holds the fence up in a February gale.
Post holes are dug to at least 600mm for a 1.8m fence and set in postmix rather than driven or spiked. Where an old fence has concrete footings, those come out too — leaving them in and working around them is why replacement fences often end up out of line.
- Timber or concrete postsTimber looks better and matches the fence. Concrete posts last longer and never rot at ground level, at a small extra cost.
- Gravel boards at the baseKeeps the bottom of the boards out of wet soil, which is where a fence normally rots first.
- Capping rail on topSheds water off the end grain and stops the top of the boards splitting.
Posts set plumb and concreted before anything goes on them
Five stages of a fencing job
Most fencing complaints come down to posts pulling loose, runs going out of line, or the bottom of the boards sitting in soil. All three are decided in the first two stages.
Strip out
Old panels, rails and posts removed, concrete footings dug out and loaded.
Setting out
Line and post centres marked, levels checked, steps planned where the ground falls.
Posts in
Holes dug to depth, posts set plumb in postmix and left to go off.
Boards and rails
Gravel boards, rails and boards fixed to the line, capping rail on top.
Clear down
Offcuts and spoil taken away, ground raked over and swept.
What will your fence cost?
Seven questions on the fence, the ground and the length. Takes about a minute and no contact details are needed first.
What kind of fence?
Not sure? Closeboard is the usual choice for a rear boundary. Slatted costs more but gives a cleaner, more contemporary finish.
How high?
Rear garden boundaries are usually 1.8m. Anything over 2m needs planning permission.
What is there now?
Digging out old concrete footings is the most time-consuming part of a fence replacement.
Timber or concrete posts?
Concrete costs a little more but never rots at ground level, which is where timber posts usually go.
What are we digging into?
Post holes in soil take minutes. Through paving or into hard rubble they take a lot longer.
Anything else needed?
Tick anything that applies, or leave them all unticked for a plain run.
How long is the fence run?
Enter the total length in linear metres. Add up all the sides you want fencing.
Not sure of the length?
Pace it out — a normal stride is roughly a metre. Or add up the sides: a standard 6m by 10m garden fenced on three sides is about 26 linear metres.
Here is what your fence would cost
An estimate based on what you have told us, not a fixed quote. Send it over and we will confirm in writing, usually the same day.
What you told us
Recent fencing projects
Get a price for your fence
Use the estimator for a figure on screen, or send photos and a rough length and we will quote in writing, usually the same day.
Garden fencing across East London and Essex
GardenWow installs and replaces timber garden fencing across East London and west Essex, covering South Woodford, Woodford Green, Wanstead, Snaresbrook, Leytonstone, Walthamstow, Chingford, Loughton, Buckhurst Hill, Chigwell, Ilford and Romford.
The service covers the whole job: stripping out the old fence and its concrete footings, setting out the line, digging post holes to depth, concreting posts, fitting gravel boards, rails, boards and capping, then clearing the site. Old timber and spoil leave under our waste carrier registration.
We fit timber fencing only — closeboard featheredge and slatted. We do not install metal or composite fencing.
Fence height and planning permission
A garden fence up to 2m high generally falls under permitted development and needs no planning permission. Next to a road or footpath the limit drops to 1m. Listed buildings and conservation areas have their own restrictions, so check with the council before going above those heights.
Whose fence is it?
There is no rule that the fence on the left belongs to you — that is a myth. Ownership is shown on the title plan, usually with a T mark on the owner's side of the boundary. Neither neighbour is obliged to maintain or replace a boundary fence, and you cannot go onto a neighbour's land to work on it without their agreement. Worth checking your deeds before commissioning a replacement.
Garden fencing questions
How much does garden fencing cost?
Closeboard runs £160 to £185 per linear metre supplied and installed. Slatted runs £200 to £245, because the timber is planed and machined rather than sawn and the slats take longer to hang level. Both cover posts, timber, fixings, removal of the old fence and waste disposal. Where you land in each range depends on the ground, the height and what has to come out first. Use the estimator above for a figure on your own boundary.
How long does a fence take?
A typical 15 to 25 metre boundary is one to two days. Digging out old concrete footings, coring through paving or stepping a sloped run all add time, and we give you a day count with the quote.
Do you take the old fence away?
Yes. Stripping out the old panels, rails, posts and footings is included, and it all leaves under our waste carrier registration.
How deep do the posts go?
At least 600mm for a 1.8m fence, and deeper on an exposed run or in soft ground. The rule of thumb is a quarter of the fence height below ground. Posts are set in postmix, not driven or spiked.
What makes the price move within the range?
Three things. What is there now — digging out old concrete footings is the slowest part of a replacement. What we are digging into — post holes in soil take minutes, through paving or old rubble they take far longer. And the height, since a 1.8m fence needs more timber and deeper posts than a 1.2m one.
Timber or concrete posts?
Timber looks better and matches the fence. Concrete lasts longer because it cannot rot at ground level, which is where timber posts almost always fail. If the fence is going in for the long term, concrete posts with gravel boards is the combination that lasts.
Do I need gravel boards?
Not strictly, but they are worth it. They keep the bottom of the boards out of wet soil, which is where a fence normally rots first, and they let you replace a board later without disturbing the rest.
Do I need planning permission?
Generally not up to 2m in a rear garden, or 1m where the fence adjoins a road or footpath. Conservation areas and listed buildings have their own rules.
Which side of the fence is mine?
Check your title plan rather than relying on the left-hand-side myth. A T mark on the plan points into the land of whoever owns that boundary.
Can you fence and turf together?
Yes, and it is usually cheaper in one visit than as two jobs. Fencing, turfing and paving can all be quoted together.
Do you guarantee the work?
Yes. Workmanship is guaranteed and we carry £5m public liability cover. If a post works loose or a run moves because of how it was built, we come back.
Get a price for your fence
Estimate on screen in about a minute, or send photos and a rough length for a written quote.